Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance Guide.

Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance.

Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance.

Some say the eyes are the windows to the soul; I say a window is nothing without the frame.  Eyebrows are the frames on our faces.  IMHO, eyebrows can make or break any look.  Eyebrow shaping and maintenance are important skills everyone should learn.  Of course you can have a professional tend to this area, but based on several very bad experiences (one lady turned my eyebrows orange, another took a chunk of hair off on my left brow where hair no longer grows ), I decided to take matters into my own hands.  Therefore, for this riveting post I will share with you how this former mono-browed Italian tames, shapes and maintains her wooly friends to symmetrical perfection 🙂  I hope you find this informative and helpful.

Tools Required For Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance:

Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance Tools clockwise: Facial Razor, Shu Uemura Eyebrow Pencil 02 Seal Brown, Stilla All Day Eyebrow Pen in Medium, Tweezerman Tweezers, Suqqu Eyebrow Pen in 01 Moss Green, Billy B Eyebrow Brush, Tweezerman Scissors.

Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance Tools clockwise:
Facial Razor, Shu Uemura Eyebrow Pencil 02 Seal Brown, Stilla All Day Eyebrow Pen in Medium, Tweezerman Tweezers, Suqqu Eyebrow Pen in 01 Moss Green, Billy B Eyebrow Brush, Tweezerman Scissors.

On most days I use my Shu Uemura Brow pencil in 02 Seal Brown.  Shu’s pencil is unique, in that color payoff is only achieved when the pencil comes into contact with the natural oils within the brow hairs.  The formula last all day, with the exception of the summer season, which requires a more long-lasting formula. For this guide, I used Stila Waterproof Brow Color in Medium.  Stila’s formula truly does not budge (even during a workout and on the hottest summer days) and is a dupe (formula-wise) for the Suqqu Brow Pen in 01 Moss Green.  Stila would be my HG, if not for the small amount offered.  Personally, I can only get one month use and constant replacement becomes bothersome.  Suqqu is the best in terms of color, but availability and cost ($50 US/4,000 JPY) are major issues.

Brow Product Color Comparison:

Brow Product Comparison: Stlla Waterproof Brow Pen in Medium, Suqqu Brow Pen 01 Moss Green, Shu Uemura 02 Seal Brown, Shu Uemura Brow Pencil 05 Stone Gray.

Brow Product Color Comparison:
Stilla Waterproof Brow Pen in Medium, Suqqu Brow Pen 01 Moss Green, Shu Uemura 02 Seal Brown, Shu Uemura Brow Pencil 05 Stone Gray.

Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance tools keeps in a box for easy access.

Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance tools kept in a box for easy access.

Eyebrow Spacing:

The general rule given to the public states, the start of the eyebrow should be parallel to the outer nostrils.  On me, this rule does not apply, my semi-wide nostrils are not proportionate to my face.  Therefore, the results would leave me with a disproportionate gap between my brows…the size of a driveway.  Not Cute!

Eyebrows aligned with the edge of the nostril.

Eyebrows aligned with the edge of the nostril.

I prefer to use the tip of my nose as a guide to where my brow should begin.  This gives me just the right amount of spacing without looking like a hammerhead shark.

Eyebrow aligned with the tip of the nose.

Eyebrow aligned with the tip of the nose.

If you really need a guide to shape the entire brow, do invest in some eyebrow stencils available at Sephora from a host of different brands.

Eyebrow Shaping and Maintenance:

Before: Untrimmed and unfilled brows.

Before:
Untrimmed and unfilled brows.

Comb the hairs in the opposite direction of growth (toward the nose) to prepare for trimming.

Comb the hairs in the opposite direction of growth (toward the nose) to prepare for trimming.

Hold the hairs into place with the brow brush and trim the uneven hairs with a quality hair scissor.

Hold the hairs into place with the brow brush and trim the uneven hairs with a quality hair scissor.  I tend to leave the tail ends longer.

Trimmed brow.

Trimmed brow.

Any residual hairs surrounding the brow are shaven off with a facial razor.  I never tweeze hairs above the brow for fear they may never grow back.  Waxing is not an option for me, mainly because I can accidentally drip the wax on my lashes or in an area not intended for hair removal.  *Stila All Day Waterproof Brow Color in Medium was used in all the following photos.

Push all hairs downward to expose the area that needs to be filled.

Push all hairs downward to expose the area that needs to be filled.

Add tour brow color of choice making sure to outline the arch.

Add your brow color of choice making sure to outline the arch.

Repeat the step for the front section.  Comb hairs upwardly to expose the area that needs to be colored.

Repeat the step for the front section. Comb hairs upwardly to expose the area that needs to be filled.

I prefer to hold the hairs in place with my brow brush and draw-in individual hairs rather than draw a straight line at the base of the brow.

Color has been applied and must be combed through thoroughly.

Color has been applied and must be combed through thoroughly.

After: Final look.

After:
Final look.

Getting into the habit of thoroughly combing your brows after color placement will ensure a more uniformed and natural looking brow.  At this point, a brow gel can be used to hold the hairs in place.  Personally, I have never found a  brow gel of natural composition that is comfortable to wear throughout the day.

L-R: Unfilled brow, Filled-in brow.

L-R:
Unfinished brow, Finished brow.

As you can tell, a fuller brow “lifts” the face and gives a more youthful appearance.  Try to refrain from placing too much color in the front end of the brow.  Blending whatever amount of color placed in this area, is sure to give a softer and more refined look to the face.  As a final tip, according to a Shu Uemura makeup artist (7 years ago..oh how I miss that counter), one should never extend their brows past their eye.

Conditioning Products for Eyebrows:

I like to apply coconut oil and castor oil to my brows and lashes every night to condition and keep them from falling out.  I read an article that stated the combination of these two oils helps with hair breakage and hair growth over time.  I cannot verify whether my hair has grown in either area, but I can support the claim about having significantly less breakage and fall-out in both areas.

THE VERDICT:  If makeup could talk what would it say?

Makeup would tell you to maintain your brows.  There is not one makeup item that will have a more significant impact on your appearance than well-groomed brows.  If your hairs are sparse, research any of the numerous hair growth products currently flooding the market.  I have heard some very good things about Rapidlash (you can use this on eyebrows as well) and Silica/Biotin supplements.  If those are not suitable options, then Anastasia makes some fantastic stencils you can use as a guide for shaping and color placement. Remember eyebrows are not meant to be twins, but very well-mannered sisters 🙂   Be well and stay safe.

-Maria

Ifmakeupcouldtalk.com is not affiliated with any brands mentioned, all products were purchased by me.  *Compensation is not given for any reviews.  *Click on each photo to enlarge. *Click on the rose highlighted words to take you to a direct link to each product.  *All opinions are my own and based on my experiences. *All photos are property of Ifmakeupcouldtalk.com unless otherwise noted.